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Saen Saeb Canal Ferry Service, Bangkok. Apr 19

A couple of weeks back I was railing about the lack of spatial understanding of Bangkok displayed by several of the major guidebooks.BKK Blog  The upshot of that, to my mind, is some rather weird recommendations as to where you should stay, places not necessarily well-placed to use either BTS or MRT rail systems.

That got me to thinking about relevant alternatives; and the canal ferry services came to mind.  Sure enough, although these are usually used by Bangkok commuters, they did rather hit the button for getting you around particularly the Klong Toey administrative area of the City.

Using the canal ferries also gives an additional dimension to your holiday, including that it is another way to meet ordinary Thais going about their everyday business:

Notes on Boat Service in Saen Saeb Canal
Piers: 27 Piers
Tickets: 5-15 baht by distance

1) Phan Fah Leelart (terminal, a bridge to Bangkok City Center)
2) Bo Bae (Garment market – second only Pratoo Nam and Pahurat [Bangkok Little India])
3) Wat Phraya Yang – (a temple near Yotse)
4) Saphan Charoen Phon (to Charoen Phon neighborhood)
5) Ban Krua (a Muslim community – the backbone of Jim Thomson’s silk business)
6) Saphan Hua Chang (with connection to National Stadium Skytrain Station)
7) Pratoonam (major BKK Garment Market, not far from Panthip and WTC, an interchange for Saensaeb Boat, used to have a water gate in the time of King Mongkut to feed the Royal lotus pond (the root of Pathumwan District), hence got the namesake from that thing)
8)Saphan Chidlom – near Central Chidlom, Siam City Bank HQ, Siam Commercial Bank (Phetburi Office)
9) Saphan Witthayu – near Vanich Building, in Wireless Road
10) Nana Nua – near Bumrungrat Hospital
11) International School – near Rueanruedee International School
12. Saphan Asok – near Japanese Embassy and Phetburi Station of Subway
13) Prasarn Mitr – in Sri Nakahrintharawiroj University (Prasarn Mitr Campus)
14) Watmai Chonglok – in New Phetburi Road
15) Phrom pak – a lane to Phrom Phong Station of Skytrain, and not far from  Thai-Italian Pier can be a substitute
16) Thon Lor – a road to Thong Lor Station – not far from RCA
17) Charn Issara – Charn Issara 2 Building
18) Saphn Klong Tan – near Klong Tan Intersection – used to be an interchange for Lad Phrao boat until 2000 (the year Boat service in Krung Kasem city moat and Lad Phrao canal went out of business)
19) The Mall 3 – (ram Khamhaeng Branch) near New Rama 9 intersection
20) Ram Khamhaeng 29 – near the defunct Welco
21) Wat Thep Leela – the main road from Ram Khamhaeng to Thai Cultural Centre
22) Ramkhamhaeng University – the biggest open university in Thailand
23) Saphan Mit Mahardthai – near Huamark Stadium – and can connect to Lad Phrao Road
24) Wat Klang
25) The Mall – the shopping center rival to Central (the main branch in Bang Kapi)
26) Bang Kapi – near bang Kapi district office, and Bang Kapi Market
27) Wat Sri Boonruean – terminal near NIDA

Mark Azavedo

http://www.2bangkok.com/ferries.shtml

The New Athens – Psirri and Gazi Mar 12

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Psirri reminds me of the Marais in Paris when it was a zone of transition – traditional workshops mixed with new bars, restaurants, yoga and dance studios.  The dissimilarities lie in Marais’ history as the Jewish Quarter of Paris, and its latter day association with the gay scene.

So bowled was I with Marais’ heady mix that it was my first choice for a fashion shoot.  Though, at that time, I spent most of my working life in Greece, I never remotely considered it.

I can barely believe my words when I now say Athens would be my undisputed choice. Psirri and nearby Gazi are so of the moment, so fascinatingly emergent, the first a major working class district of Athens, the latter the old gasworks.

Get to Psirri quickly before all the character goes. It will become ever more characterised by bars, restaurants and entertainment venues.  Also, some nice modern speciality shops.

It is still the talk of Athens that Psirri became designated as an entertainment zone, so pushing up property values and rents, making them unaffordable to the traditional trades.  The chatter is of corruption as a major property owner and landlord in Psirri was a government minister.

For the casual visitor, Psirri simply feels like the next step, a natural development from overdeveloping Monastiraki. In fact, ever onward and outward, development is moving into Thissio.

A great thing to do is an evening stroll in the park by Thissio station, under the watchful view of the Acropolis. There is a small handicrafts and collectables market to browse.

Gazi was much less contentious, acclaimed a wonderful use of the old gasworks. It is an exhibition and media centre, and, more particularly, an entertainment zone. Perhaps the most achingly trendy entertainment zone in the world? This is where you find Athens’ beautiful people or, to be more precise, Athens’ beautiful young people (the older ones focus on Kolonaki).

I am, of course, trendy beyond even Gazi, having so many allergies that eating out is near impossible. But, consistently recommended for all Athens are two Gazi restaurants, The Butcher’s Shop (for meats) and Sardelles (for fish). Hoxton is the usual bar recommendation.

In screaming the case for Athen’s new areas, I have to admit that on a spring evening, without the tourist crowds, Monastiraki was beguiling.

I stayed in the wonderfully affordable Hotel Aristoteles, chosen through our site.

Mark Azavedo

New Transport in Bangkok Feb 27

Cloister, wat Mahathat & Buddhist University, Bangkok, Thailand 5RblogMari is in Bangkok at the moment; and e-mailed me about new tram services in the City:

Chinatown

There is a new free Chinatown Sightseeing Tram starting at Soi Porisapa by Hualamphong Railway Station, where you collect your ticket from the booth.

You can stay on for the tour or get on and off with stops at Thianfa Foundation (Thianfa Foundation, Siang Gong Shrine, Wat Yuan Taladnoi), Old Market (Old Market, Bumpenchinprot Temple), Mangkorn Kamalawat Temple ( Wat Leng Noei Yi, Kanmatuyaram Temple, Leng Buai Yia Market), Kwong Siew Hospital (Guang Dong Shrine, Kanikaphol Temple, Da Feng Zu Shrine, Piangnarm Road), Traimit Temple-Ocean Circle (Wat Samchin, Yaowarat Road).

The Tram operates 11am-11pm weekends, with typically Thai confusion as to whether it also operates 5pm-11pm weekdays.

Rattanakosin Island

Information around the Rattanakosin tour tram is even less clear. It operates 10am-8pm, with tickets available from Democracy Monument and Sanam Luang (30 Baht). Tours, with multi-lingual commentary leave every 30 minutes from near the Grand Palace front gates.

The Tram loops around all the major attractions of the Island which is the Old Bangkok of the Bangkok Period. You cover such sights as the Grand Palace, San Luk Meung, The National Museum, National Gallery, Jurapong Mosque. and Pak Talong Flower Market.

To Hua Hin and Cha-Am

The new Southern Bus terminal is very far out of central Bangkok. This has led to new informal minibus services from Democracy Monument. There is huge confusion over this, but I’ve found the services fast and cheap.

The downside is very little information.  I’ve been told by a travel agent friend that they leave every half hour, or sooner when a bus is full.  There are no published timetables, so we don’t know when precisely the first and last buses depart.

Fare is 180Baht. They reserve the right to also charge for luggage, but I’ve never actually been asked to pay.

Departure is from an alleyway at the side of Century Mall/Plaza. All companies proved reliable. I remember one called 333.

Return from Hua Hin is from opposite the Esso petrol station.

Mark Azavedo

Trend Setting – Berlin Feb 20

Blog TrabantI love Berlin; and had a very happy commute a couple of weeks back, reading Alison Grinter’s article “Trend Setting” in TNT magazine.

The article focuses on the new East/West divide in Berlin, the East being capital of cool in a super-cool city.

Alison and TNT magazine have kindly given us permission to link to this not to be missed article. Please click here.

Moctezuma Aztec Ruler – The British Museum Jan 06

24 September 2009 – 24 January 2010MONTECZUMA-01

What would we do if the Messiah came to the world right now ? Would the governments headed by members of the three Abrahamic faiths hand over their reigns of power to the Messiah ? Indeed, what would the governments, religious authorities, armies and laymen do in such a situation ? Would people feel this was the fulfilment of a prophesy or Armageddon ? What would followers of non-Abrahamic faiths or atheists do ?

These are the sort of questions Moctezuma and his council of advisors must have faced when the Spanish first appeared on the coast of Mexico. The Spanish appeared in the year, manner and in the way the Mexica expected their nemesis, Lord Quetzalcoatl, was suppose to appear, spelling the end of their world as they knew it. This was no messiah of deliverance, he was expected to destroy their way of life – and the Spanish did do that !!

By the time the Mexica realized the Spanish were no Gods but only all too human, it was too late. New diseases, new weapons, new animals, new alliances, new religion and new political ideas destroyed the Aztec empire.

Some of the best remains of their splendid civilization are exhibited at the British Museum at present. Fantastic works in carved stone, fine gold and iconic mosaics made of turquoise and semi-precious stones are beautiful to see and very thought provoking. What we can see on display is all that managed to survive the iconoclastic missionaries and greedy Conquistadors. Its amazing to think what the bigger, better pieces must have looked like !

There are paintings showing human sacrifice, ceremonial weapons covered with precious mosaics, wooden drums, model of the central space in Tenochtitlan, stone animals in realistic and fantasy shapes, books written by Aztec and Spanish on the life and times of the Mexica people etc etc etc. There are objects from various tombs, temples and palaces of the Aztecs.

There were some Pre-Spanish paintings, with fantastic colours, shapes and designs that seem curiously modern ! For example, there is a painting of New Fire ceremony, reminiscent of the lighting of modern Olympic torch ceremony. There are the political manifesto style paintings showing the king having “the common touch”, visiting different parts of the empire. It was fascinating to see the king, royal family and aristocrats offering their own blood for various sacrifices. Seeing these, it’s easy to understand how the idea of “the son of heaven shedding his own precious blood for the good of the world” must have resonated with the Mexica people.

Black décor, erie music, and plenty of pictures of blood letting, skulls, death masks, weird serpents, ideas of obtaining strength by drinking human blood made this seem like a Gothic vampire’s utopia !

The exhibition is extensive, interesting and very thought provoking. Don’t miss it for the world !

This article is copyright Bhagwat Shah and appears by kind permission of the author.

Dress for Success – Tailoring in Bangkok Dec 16

Jesse and Victor 2Jesse and Victor 1I guess Bangkok has the reputation for making you feel different about yourself through the surgical option. I found something cheaper than Bangkok’s bargain basement surgery rates. Something I could afford. Something I was more inclined to. Something equally effective. Bangkok tailoring.

That said, not any old Bangkok tailor, but Jesse and Victor Gulati, the father and son team of Rajawongse at 130 Sukhumvit, by the Landmark Hotel. Assuredly not tailors to the tourist trade. More tailors to the diplomatic community.

Jesse and Victor work very closely with the US Embassy, dressing ambassadors down to marine guards.

These have recommended the Gulati’s tailoring to visiting politicians, though the recommendation to George W Bush was from Dad, George Bush. Other famous names from the USA political community that have been dressed by Jesse and Victor include Sen.John Kerry, Homeland Security Secretary Tom Ridge and Nancy Reagan.

For Nancy Reagan they also produced a fabric backdrop for a television appearance that matched her dress and earrings.

She must have been one mightily persuasive lady. I don’t see Jesse and Victor often deviating from their brief of classic quality tailoring. They precisely give off an air of doing what they do best, doing it to perfection and in an atmosphere of measured calm (quite something in the freneticism of Sukhumvit).

Tailoring is a very serious issue at Rajawongse, though Jesse and Victor are happy to laugh and joke about other issues, discuss their travels, give recommendations. At all times you are addressed by your first name; and that is remembered.

When it is time for a measurement or fitting, a hush descends. The attentiveness made me feel good, the results even better. I literally felt different about myself. Silly really, as I hadn’t changed. Presumably the underlying thought was I can’t be so odd that I can’t be accommodated!

I had shirts made. For my big collar size, the arms are always too long. The body billows, unless I buy slimfit – then it’s too tight!

With Jesse and Victor I received perfection, and in the finest Egyptian cotton. Victor allowed himself a moment of wry humour at the fitting: “It could have been made for you, Mark”.

And the cost of perfection, of feeling good about myself, 1000Baht (approximately £18). A lot cheaper than surgery, even at Bangkok rates!

Mark Azavedo

http://dress-for-success.com/

 

Diamonds for dictionaries Nov 14

img270Here is something exciting for the traveller if you’re weekending in London: Maharajas: The Splendour of India’s Royal Courts at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

10 October 2009 – 17 January 2010

Sponsored by Ernst & Young

Exhibitions, Rooms 38, 39 and North Court

£11 Adults
£  9 Seniors
£  6 Students, 12-17 yrs, ES40 Holders

Recently, we went to see the fantastic exhibition on “Maharajas” at the Victoria and Albert museum.  The exhibition is split in to three sections.  First section has paintings, jewellery, jewelled armour, rich trappings for horse and elephant on a regal parade.  Things were made of precious stones, gold and silver.  Even the royal wine flask was make of pure jade, inlaid with precious stones.  There were fantastic paintings showing how Rajput ladies hunted with rifles and played energetic polo games with their men-folk !

Yet, for all this extravagance, it was all held in abeyance to the whim and pleasure of the Great Mogul !  The emperor in Dehli could grant lands, titles and gadi to whoever he pleased.  Sons of royal lines stretching back to antiquity lined up to be generals and governors in the employ of the Emperor.  One particular painting reinforced how even the proud Maharanas of Marwad were forced to bow before a mogul prince.  Having given their daughters to the Emperor, other Rajput princes stood, heads suitably bowed.

The next room dealt with the rising power of the East India Company and culmination of this in the Imperial Darbars of the British Raj.  As the time of the Moguls came to an end, the Indian princes and kings shifted their dependence and loyalties to the Company !  They could have declared their independence at this point, but instead, they preferred to have someone lord it over them !  They asked the British to keep peace between each other, guarantee their borders and provide security to their state !!  They invited a third party to mediate in their internal quarrels and gave up their own independence to hear someone else pronounce “justice” for them.

The British used this opportunity to expand their influence and later their territories.  Any prince or king who did not follow their “treaty” to the letter was heavily punished with fines and even confiscation of their lands.  Kings could no longer marry or adopt sons without British consent !  Traders became the political agents mediating between princes and later became the defacto rulers of the land ! 

In 1857, there was an opportunity to get rid of both the Moguls and the British, but, the sepoys went to the Mogul emperor and most of the royal princes helped the British.  Result was the abolishment of the house of Timur and ending of the Company rule.  Indian princes were now to be ruled by the British Raj !  In 1877, at a glittering assembly of Indian royals, a foreign queen became the “Empress of India”.  Celebrated in a room size painting, the scene was poignant with irony as proud men sat on gilded thrones, accepting a woman as their liege-lord when their own women still lived in strict purdah !  Subsequent Durbars were even more impressive.  In 1911, the reigning Emperor came in person to accept the pledges of his loyal royals.  Proud princes bore the train of the royal mantel as their fathers bowed and walked backwards to honour the King Emperor !!

Fantastic costumes, jewels, letter written in gold ink by the Rani of Jhasi, video footage of the great Darbar of 1911 and more paintings.  This room houses some fantastic gifts send to the British royalty as tribute by “native prices and chieftains of India”.  Note the irony of how kings and maharajas were demoted at a single stroke to native princes and chiefs ! 

In addition to the taxes and fines paid to the British governemt, silver thrones, palanquin encased in carved ivory, jewelled sword with a scabbard covered with 719 large diamonds were gifted to the British Kings by the kings of India !  Victoria and Albert Museum writes with sad irony that what the Indian princes got in return for these extravagant gifts were only Bibles and dictionaries !!  British clearly felt that the poor benighted natives of India desperately needed the civilisation offered by their new religion and modern education.  What a slap in the face it must have been for haughty rajputs kings and princes, to get bibles and dictionaries as return gifts for all the diamonds and jewels they offered their British overlords !!

Change in style of the royals was evident from the objects on display in another room. Kings no longer dined in gold and silver.  They no longer drank from jade cups.  Instead, they used expensive glass marketed as “Belgian crystal” !  Palaces were now of the new Western styles.  A 15 foot photo showed the different styles of palaces, stretching out in to the countryside outside the town !

The last room showcased the elegant, Eton educated Maharajas of the 20th Century.  Diamond necklaces designed by Cartier and Van Cleef, Art Deco furniture, princes and princesses posing in Indian and Western outfits with great sense of style and showmanship in both !  A huge Rolls Royce stood in the middle of the room to show the sophistication of the ultra modern rulers of India. Their genuine desire to live in the past whilst bringing modernity of education and good governance to their people was touching to see.  Many died in the two world wars to show their loyalty to the British Raj.

It all came to naught though.

Princes had not learned from their history.  Their bards recited the long list of royal heritage going back for 100 generations, but no one was listening to the lessons of this millennium long history.  Princes forgot that you have to rule to be royal.  Gallivanting in Europe and bathing in champagne makes you rich, but not royal.

At independence of India, in 1947, the princes were once again poised at the brink of history.  To declare independence of their own or to give up everything they stood for, so that India and Pakistan could be “whole nations” and not be “moth eaten”!  Having abdicated any meaningful sovereignty for so many centuries, they did not know which way to turn.  Most took the advise of their Viceroy and gave up their kingdoms – 563 of them – to the two new nations.  Only Kashmir and Hydrabad tried to remain impendent.  Pakistan forced the hand of Kashmir, making it embrace India in a desperate hurry after an ill-concealed invasion.  Hydrabad was unceremoniously absorbed into India a few years later.  The greatest insult was yet to come. 

In less than 24 years after having voluntarily signed over their lands to the new Republic, princes and kings of India found themselves exposed again.  Daughter of the man they gave their kingdoms to, unilaterally took away their privy purses and rescinded even their titles !!  Indira Gandhi’s persecution of the princes was mean spirited and in breech of the constitution and promises made by her own father.  Yet, no one protested.  No one rose up to challenge the breech of faith.  There were no more loyal subjects to fight for the royals !! 

Staring poverty in face, the princes have on the whole reinvented themselves as “heritage hoteliers” now.  Palaces, once the preserve of the privileged few, can now be rented by the hour !!  Indeed, how the mighty have fallen !!

What remain are the glittering remnants of the past.

Exhibitions like these help us learn lessons from shards of history.

This article is copyright Bhagwat Shah and appears by kind permission of the author.

 

The Berliner Blog. Aug 09

berlin-blog-2_dsc0323-01In the (fashion) photographic days, Helmut Newton was my major influence. I´ve been in Berlin to the Helmut Newton Foundation, paying homage.

Specifically, I wanted to see the mammoth Sumo project (the exhibition continues through to January 2010 – so you´ve plenty of time to catch it).

It doesn´t disappoint. It was fascinating to see such a large body of work. Paris was Newton´s highpoint. He was clearly excited by the city, making wondrous explorations of “la zone” as well as photographic technique.

Above all, though, Vogue France simply commissioned in an adventurous way – hard, hard-hitting, graphic, sexy images. By comparison, the American Vogue images look soft and pale.

Alongside Sumo is Private Property. In this section is a video installation of Newton at work, shot by June, his wife. It is simply unrivalled as an insight into the photographic process. I want it on continual “loop” in my home!

What of the rest of my time in Berlin? Spent almost entirely in the creative, alternative, high-immigration zones of Kreuzburg and Mitte. Think Oranienburgerstrasse and surrounds in Mitte and Oranienstrasse and surrounds in Kreuzberg.

Tacheles “art centre”, in fact a loose co-operative of creatives, on Oranienburgerstrasse is a highspot. Good restaurants are there too. Nearby is Hackescher Markt, a great market on market days, and always a wonderful area for eating out and catching the buskers. Close to Hackescher is Museum Island.

Generally, Germany does BOHO/Alternative well, especially Berlin. That said, my preference is Hamburg, where a weekend in the St Pauli and St George districts is a weekend well spent.

What you will never find in Hamburg, though, is the Berlin Wall!  Particularly worth a visit is East Side Gallery, on Muhlenstrasse near Ostbahnhof, a 1.3 Km preserved section of the wall, decorated with paintings.

It is periodically restored; and the latest restoration began on 14th April 2009.  You can go and watch the artists at work.

This said, my preference is for flipping through a hole in the wall to see the spontaneous artwork that has appeared over the years.

The other advantage of doing this is that, in summer, this is one of the areas by the River Spree that is turned into an artificial beach.  Hit the sunloungers, unless someone has put a towel there first!!

Hotel City 54 was a real find. Doubles are in fact apartments with a small separate kitchen and huge, well-appointed, separate bathroom. All for Euros 42! Go to Hotels search at www.marktimetravel.com – availability is at booking.com

Mark Azavedo

Singapore Sling Jun 06

duxton-road-chinatown-singapore-blog1turi-beach-noysa-batam-indonesia-blogIn the old days - just a few years back – a guide to Singapore was a really simple (and short) affair. Orchard Road was covered for shopping, Raffles Hotel was suggested for a Singapore Sling, Bukit Timah (Nature Reserve) was suggested to get out of the City, Haw Par Villa was mentioned (I wonder what happened to that), and a final suggestion was the Singapore Zoological Gardens.  As the years went by, Sentosa was added.  And that was about that!

Now a very different Singapore presents itself to visitors, one that positively celebrates its massive, vibrant, ethnic diversity.  One that lets you where you weren’t previously encouraged. Come to think of it, one that lets you where Singaporeans weren’t encouraged!  There is a new liberalism.  The air is positively different, lighter, exciting, particularly by night.

Mostly, I see any visit to Singapore as focusing on its various ethnic areas.  That said, there are one or two stragglers that don’t fit the pattern, notably the Singapore River area, which you must visit, particularly by night.

The areas I’m thinking of are Clarke’s Quay and Boat Quay, areas of old riverside warehouses that have been restored (some would say over-restored); and are now restaurant and retail areas.  In the evening there are hawker stalls too.

The whole environment down on the Quays is totally gorgeous, very upscale in appearance.  Don’t, though, be put off the restaurants and bars.  There are cheaper in Singapore, but prices are by no means crazy.

For cheap, fun, nightlife, a grittier, but never threatening, atmosphere, go to Geylang.  This is the ethnic Malay area of the City.  It is an entertainment zone, but, note, it is also a red-light district.  There are sights that would make Bangkok blush!  But, that is actually refreshing in previously uptight Singapore.

There is a great choice of restaurants, many Ma and Pa or family-run businesses.  Food is good (though never great); and I seem to remember paying about £6 per meal with water in 2008.

I appear to have developed an accidental theme of entertainment and dining by price, though this also fits with my ethnic areas view.

Singapore’s mid-range is clearly Chinatown, though there is much diversity.  The area is never down-at-heel, but parts, around Duxton Road, are creamy smooth.

Keong Saik Road is also a particular favourite with its wonderful yoga studios (Whatever – it also has healing spaces, cafe and bookstore) and simply the best cookery bookshop in the world (25DegreesC – it also has a test kitchen, guest speakers and a small cafe).  Keong Saik, originally Chinatown’s red-light district, also has a number of wonderful boutique hotels, such as Hotel 1929, Royal Peacock Hotel, Keong Saik Hotel and Regal Inn.

More central in Chinatown is Pagoda Street, famed for its night market.  Closeby is Spring Street, better known as Food Street.  At night the street is made over to outdoor dining, with a huge number of restaurants competing for your custom.

I seem to have talked a lot about nightlife areas.  My recommendations for day are Kampang Glam, Singapore’s Arabic area and Little India.  Both do what they say on the can, providing a maze of ethnic eating spots and speciality stores.

So, you’ve had a few days of serious city buzz.  My problem has always been, what next?  With Bangkok, you make easily for a few days at a beach resort, such as Hua Hin.  With Hong Kong, you simply go to an Outlying Island.

The obvious focus from Singapore is Indonesia’s Riau Islands, notably Batam, only 45 minutes by ferry.  But, I’ve always been dubious, the island being essentially industrial.

Then I found theTuri Beach area of Nongsa.  Heaven.  Specifically, I adore Turi Beach Resort – you don’t even have to change your Singapore dollars!

See our pictures, then contact us straightaway in London(marktimetravel@googlemail.com, +44 (0)2089852161).  Through our partners in Singapore, we can offer very special rates at Turi Beach Resort and packages to include ferry and taxi transfers (the Resort is 5 minutes from Nongsapura Ferry Terminal).  We can also add spa treatments and meals.  This place is so relaxing.  Perhaps a honeymoon?

Mark Azavedo

Lisbon – that long-haul feeling for a short-haul price Jan 07

thieves-market-lisbon-6rmthieves-market-lisbon-5rmI was in Lisbon just before Xmas for the first time in many years. But I still got that long-haul feeling for a short-haul price.

This is a city in turn elegant, characterful, positively rundown, brand-spanking new.

Baixa is a planned grid of streets established after the Great Earthquake of 1755. This is Lisbon’s epicentre, with fine shopping and dining. There is much important neo-classical architecture; and the area is being considered for World Heritage Site Listing.

Alfama is quite the opposite of Baix’s openness. This area survived the Earthquake; and is the original medieval Moorish city of winding alleys with whitewashed houses.

Of particular interest in Alfama is Feira da Ladra, The Thieves Market. This is an interesting walk up from Apolonia Station (or get there on the 28 tram). The market is open Tuesday and Saturday mornings. Nothing appears beyond sale!

Most tourists would now visit  Belem. This is the area of town for museums and monuments; and all by the Tagus estuary.

There are fantastic views out over the estuary that really give you the feel the discoverers had as they set sail. I particularly love the Monument to the Discoveries for that feel.

Also on the estuary is Belem Tower. In the vicinity are Jeronimos Monastery, Ajuda Palace and the Coaches Museum.

A favourite area of mine, definitely not touristic, is Martim Moniz. This is a seething multi-ethnic area. Take the metro to Martim Moniz (tram 28 is an alternative) and you actually come up within a shopping centre filled with mostly Indian and Chinese shops. The surrounding narrow alleys and streets are mostly Chinese.

It is a short walk from here to Intendente. Again a multi-national enclave, this time very rundown, but subject to a massive redevelopment plan.

A final area that tourists don’t reach is Parque das Nacoes, though this is a matter of distance. It is a little further out. Just remember, though, how brilliant public transport – metro, trams and buses – is in Lisbon. Despite being built on seven hills, I also find it a very walkable city.

Parque Nacoes was mostly built for Expo 98. Here you find the amazing Oriente Station, a shopping mall, casino, restaurants and a fantastic view out over Vasco da Gama Bridge.

The bridge is eleven miles long. It is redolent of the Floriday Keys drive. You feel you just have to drive that bridge!

For further information go to www.golisbon.com and www.lisbon-guide.info

Mark Azavedo