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Archive for August, 2009

The Berliner Blog. Aug 09

berlin-blog-2_dsc0323-01In the (fashion) photographic days, Helmut Newton was my major influence. I´ve been in Berlin to the Helmut Newton Foundation, paying homage.

Specifically, I wanted to see the mammoth Sumo project (the exhibition continues through to January 2010 – so you´ve plenty of time to catch it).

It doesn´t disappoint. It was fascinating to see such a large body of work. Paris was Newton´s highpoint. He was clearly excited by the city, making wondrous explorations of “la zone” as well as photographic technique.

Above all, though, Vogue France simply commissioned in an adventurous way – hard, hard-hitting, graphic, sexy images. By comparison, the American Vogue images look soft and pale.

Alongside Sumo is Private Property. In this section is a video installation of Newton at work, shot by June, his wife. It is simply unrivalled as an insight into the photographic process. I want it on continual “loop” in my home!

What of the rest of my time in Berlin? Spent almost entirely in the creative, alternative, high-immigration zones of Kreuzburg and Mitte. Think Oranienburgerstrasse and surrounds in Mitte and Oranienstrasse and surrounds in Kreuzberg.

Tacheles “art centre”, in fact a loose co-operative of creatives, on Oranienburgerstrasse is a highspot. Good restaurants are there too. Nearby is Hackescher Markt, a great market on market days, and always a wonderful area for eating out and catching the buskers. Close to Hackescher is Museum Island.

Generally, Germany does BOHO/Alternative well, especially Berlin. That said, my preference is Hamburg, where a weekend in the St Pauli and St George districts is a weekend well spent.

What you will never find in Hamburg, though, is the Berlin Wall!  Particularly worth a visit is East Side Gallery, on Muhlenstrasse near Ostbahnhof, a 1.3 Km preserved section of the wall, decorated with paintings.

It is periodically restored; and the latest restoration began on 14th April 2009.  You can go and watch the artists at work.

This said, my preference is for flipping through a hole in the wall to see the spontaneous artwork that has appeared over the years.

The other advantage of doing this is that, in summer, this is one of the areas by the River Spree that is turned into an artificial beach.  Hit the sunloungers, unless someone has put a towel there first!!

Hotel City 54 was a real find. Doubles are in fact apartments with a small separate kitchen and huge, well-appointed, separate bathroom. All for Euros 42! Go to Hotels search at www.marktimetravel.com – availability is at booking.com

Mark Azavedo

Bangkok – City of Angels Aug 02

blog-erawan-shrine-bkk2My relationship with Thailand goes back a long way. I have worked and holidayed there often.

At first, I used to feel like a GI from Vietnam on R & R. I remember “Let it Be” blurting out under the old whirring fans of the Ambassador Food Court (sadly, now long gone) and fake Rolexes for sale on every street corner.

My friend, Julie, always insisted on eating out at Thai Room. It was the old Peace Corps hang out; and, assuredly, had not been decorated since the Vietnam days. Julie liked the full-on Bangkok experience, but would only “go for it” when either Keith or I was around. In those days Patpong wasn’t quite the place for a lone western woman.

Fast forward to Bangkok now. A lone western woman wouldn’t be noticed. Western businesspeople are everywhere. A tide of concrete has hit Bangkok, not to mention Skytrain, an underground system, a new airport and a new airport link. There are fabulous new shopping malls and department stores.

An awful lot of concrete. But Bangkok is the same city, in many ways a better city. What dilapidation was there where the fabulous OJ Place trades upscale antiques and offers a wonderful place to have a quiet coffee or fruit juice? What of the fantastic “colonial” house that is now Spa 1930? Did the Oriental look as good as it does now?

And, above all, if any city in this world is made of people, not places, it’s Bangkok. Not without reason has the Land of Smiles earned that sobriquet – not that “earned” is quite the right word. Charm, graciousness and half-full glasses come effortlessly to Thais.

Not that Thais are without an eye to the main chance. Changes in Western lifestyles and interests have been well understood to produce a range of holiday add-ons unheard of only a few years ago.

The internationally acclaimed Oriental and Blue Elephant Cooking Schools offer day courses in Thai Cookery, starting with a trip to market to buy ingredients, ending by dining on the meal you have cooked. Even at these highly upscale establishments, prices are only in the range of around £50 to £70.

There are cheaper well-established day courses, again hands-on, at such places as Baipai Thai Cooking School and Silom Thai Cooking School. Prices range from about £18 to £32.

Several establishments offer massage courses, be that traditional Thai or oil-based massage. The benchmark is the well-known Wat Po School of Massage and Traditional Thai Medicine. 5 Day courses range from £117 to £153, depending on school of massage followed.

Another developing area is medical and dental tourism. You may develop immediate “pass on that” images of cosmetic surgery. But what of simple teeth whitening, taking around an hour by laser, and costing a fraction of Western rates?

And , failing all this new stuff, there is still the unmissable old stuff, such as Wat Phra Keo, Wat Arun, Wat Po, The Royal Palace, The Royal Barge Sheds, Erawan Shrine, Jim Thompson’s House (also a great place for coffee or a fruit juice by the pond, not to mention the fabulous silks shop), and Chatuchak Market.

Finally, a plea to frequent the Cabbages and Condoms restaurant off Sukhumvit (10, Sukhumvit Soi 12). All profits go to support a brilliant sexual health and development charity. The food is good and sensibly priced. Go upstairs if the weather is good.

Our knowledge of Bangkok in particular and Thailand in general is unparalleled. Do contact us on 02089852161 or get booking from our fantastic accommodation bank – button on home page of this site!

Mark Azavedo