In the old days - just a few years back – a guide to Singapore was a really simple (and short) affair. Orchard Road was covered for shopping, Raffles Hotel was suggested for a Singapore Sling, Bukit Timah (Nature Reserve) was suggested to get out of the City, Haw Par Villa was mentioned (I wonder what happened to that), and a final suggestion was the Singapore Zoological Gardens.  As the years went by, Sentosa was added.  And that was about that!

Now a very different Singapore presents itself to visitors, one that positively celebrates its massive, vibrant, ethnic diversity.  One that lets you where you weren’t previously encouraged. Come to think of it, one that lets you where Singaporeans weren’t encouraged!  There is a new liberalism.  The air is positively different, lighter, exciting, particularly by night.

Mostly, I see any visit to Singapore as focusing on its various ethnic areas.  That said, there are one or two stragglers that don’t fit the pattern, notably the Singapore River area, which you must visit, particularly by night.

The areas I’m thinking of are Clarke’s Quay and Boat Quay, areas of old riverside warehouses that have been restored (some would say over-restored); and are now restaurant and retail areas.  In the evening there are hawker stalls too.

The whole environment down on the Quays is totally gorgeous, very upscale in appearance.  Don’t, though, be put off the restaurants and bars.  There are cheaper in Singapore, but prices are by no means crazy.

For cheap, fun, nightlife, a grittier, but never threatening, atmosphere, go to Geylang.  This is the ethnic Malay area of the City.  It is an entertainment zone, but, note, it is also a red-light district.  There are sights that would make Bangkok blush!  But, that is actually refreshing in previously uptight Singapore.

There is a great choice of restaurants, many Ma and Pa or family-run businesses.  Food is good (though never great); and I seem to remember paying about £6 per meal with water in 2008.

I appear to have developed an accidental theme of entertainment and dining by price, though this also fits with my ethnic areas view.

Singapore’s mid-range is clearly Chinatown, though there is much diversity.  The area is never down-at-heel, but parts, around Duxton Road, are creamy smooth.

Keong Saik Road is also a particular favourite with its wonderful yoga studios (Whatever – it also has healing spaces, cafe and bookstore) and simply the best cookery bookshop in the world (25DegreesC – it also has a test kitchen, guest speakers and a small cafe).  Keong Saik, originally Chinatown’s red-light district, also has a number of wonderful boutique hotels, such as Hotel 1929, Royal Peacock Hotel, Keong Saik Hotel and Regal Inn.

More central in Chinatown is Pagoda Street, famed for its night market.  Closeby is Spring Street, better known as Food Street.  At night the street is made over to outdoor dining, with a huge number of restaurants competing for your custom.

I seem to have talked a lot about nightlife areas.  My recommendations for day are Kampang Glam, Singapore’s Arabic area and Little India.  Both do what they say on the can, providing a maze of ethnic eating spots and speciality stores.

So, you’ve had a few days of serious city buzz.  My problem has always been, what next?  With Bangkok, you make easily for a few days at a beach resort, such as Hua Hin.  With Hong Kong, you simply go to an Outlying Island.

The obvious focus from Singapore is Indonesia’s Riau Islands, notably Batam, only 45 minutes by ferry.  But, I’ve always been dubious, the island being essentially industrial.

Then I found theTuri Beach area of Nongsa.  Heaven.  Specifically, I adore Turi Beach Resort – you don’t even have to change your Singapore dollars!

See our pictures, then contact us straightaway in London(marktimetravel@googlemail.com, +44 (0)2089852161).  Through our partners in Singapore, we can offer very special rates at Turi Beach Resort and packages to include ferry and taxi transfers (the Resort is 5 minutes from Nongsapura Ferry Terminal).  We can also add spa treatments and meals.  This place is so relaxing.  Perhaps a honeymoon?

Mark Azavedo